Fine-Dining Options Provide Food for Thought

Philadelphia has a stretch of real estate where your palate will explode with enthusiasm. Some of the finest Philadelphia restaurants have gravitated to the center of Walnut Street, known locally as Restaurant Row. In fact, the restaurant scene has had a renaissance since APA last convened in Philly for its annual meeting in 1994.

The grande dame of the city’s fine-dining establishments is George Perrier’s Le Bec-Fin. It is consistently ranked among the country’s five best restaurants, and its sister restaurant Brasserie Perrier, a block away, is getting rave reviews on its own.

And one can’t talk about this bustling block without mentioning Susanna Foo’s creative French-Chinese cuisine. One could dine all week without leaving the block.

I will describe a few of my favorite restaurant choices and recommend some signature dishes.

At the epicenter of the “hot” new Walnut Street restaurants is the Striped Bass. At 15th and Walnut, in an Art Deco building, it formerly housed a brokerage firm. The interior was softened by restaurant designer Marguerite Rodgers. The ceilings soar, and the floor to ceiling windows create wonderful light as well as naturally intimate areas. A giant striped bass adorns the open-air kitchen. Owner Neil Stein has also set the tone for a stylish bar area where the well-dressed patrons come to devour martinis and champagne as Billie Holiday and Natalie Cole are heard in the background. The menu, of course, is all fish, and only the finest ingredients make their way into each dish. Start with the raw bar that features oysters from both coasts, shrimp, clams, and Maine lobster. The menu also offers house-smoked salmon, Petrossian caviars, and daily ceviches. Chef Terence Feury, formerly of Le Bernardin in New York City, presides. If you reserve early, there is a chef’s table that seats 12 at which you leave your palate to chef Feury’s imagination for the evening. The wine list is extremely well crafted. Of the desserts, all of which are homemade, I am partial to the warm Vahlrona chocolate cake with gooey center. Lunch here is a three-course bargain at $26.

George Perrier placed Philadelphia on the map with the venerable Le Bec-Fin. Now he has pulled off another coup with the chic and hip new Brasserie Perrier. The crowd is young and hip. The menu is mainly French with an international flair. I would start with the sautéed sea scallops with oven-dried tomato and crab Napoleon or the Le Bec-Fin house smoked salmon over warm potato blini or homemade pasta. Then on to an entrée of the potato-crusted halibut with lobster mashed potatoes in vermouth sauce, or the pan-roasted veal chop with ratatouille vegetables pomme Anna and sage essence, or the 14-ounce prime New York strip steak with garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach in a shallot sauce. The brasserie feel comes through with the plats du jour, which on Fridays feature our favorite, the bouillabaisse. Desserts include Tahitian crème brûleé and warm Vahlrona chocolate soufflé. Lunch here is also a bargain at three courses for $26.

It is extremely difficult to choose from all the great new restaurants in Philadelphia. I know that annual meeting goers will come to town armed with Zagat guides in hand. I am comfortable suggesting that you can dine on Walnut Street for a taste of the best cuisine. Reserve early and don’t be left a foie-gras or cheesesteak short.

If you have that craving for some great sandwiches, steaks and hoagies as well as gourmet sandwiches will fill you up. Go one block walk south off Walnut Street to Locust Street, where you will find Wolf’s Market, an upscale takeout/delivery (with notice) at 1500 Locust Street, near several of the downtown hotels. Wolf makes one of the best versions of the chicken “cheesesteak” that I have had in my 38 years as a Philadelphian. It comes on a great baguette roll filled with marinated, diced chicken breast, gooey cheese, and exotic mushrooms. Lots of chocolates, nuts, and ice creams are available, as are soft pretzels and great coffee. It is a must pop-in during the annual meeting if you are on the run and want to put together a little picnic in the park (Rittenhouse Square) or just people-watch from one of the outdoor tables. Joe Wolf is always there with a smile and some down-home Philly advice. ▪

Dr. Levy is a member of the APA Task Force on Local Arrangements.