Dining Options Will Appeal to All Tastes, Budgets

For times when luxe is just too much, San Diego offers a smorgasbord of moderately priced restaurants representing a United Nations of cuisines and lots of California creativity. Here is a tasting menu, by geographic area, of dining spots that won't leave you breathless when the bill comes.

Downtown and Convention Center

Bertrand's at Mr. A's. Located on the top floor of a downtown office building, this gem has a sweeping view of the city. Original, haute cuisine is produced by this kitchen, often approaching perfection. The staff is professional and attentive without being overbearing, and dinner here, though approaching the expensive category, is a wonderful experience.

Laurel. Located across the street from Mr. A's is an old favorite that has been recently been overhauled. Quite modern in décor, the chef uses fresh, local ingredients, which are the best of what has come to be known as California Cuisine. The multilevel dining room glows with candles and white tablecloths but the atmosphere is casual and friendly.

Rainwater's. Located next to the Santa Fe Depot near the convention center, Rainwater's is for those who want a very good steak house that is locally owned. Its dark wood is original, and it seems it has been around forever. A favorite meeting place for local movers, if not shakers, it has a wonderful way with steaks and roast beef. The bar and wine list are comprehensive, and the wait staff is very experienced and cordial. You can't go wrong here.

Gran Tapa. Located on the edge of the Gaslamp Quarter, this Spanish tapas restaurant offers a wide selection of delicious Spanish small plates and a good list of Spanish wines to accompany them. Generally busy for lunch and dinner, this is a very popular spot with locals. It was founded by an American-born matador who is part of local folklore. He also owns another restaurant, Dobson's, located near Horton Plaza, which is the place to go for business and media types, and there are few more pleasant places to have lunch in town.

Fio's. Located in the Gaslamp Quarter, Fio's has reasonably good Italian food and efficient service and is always crowded. Many locals say this is their favorite restaurant in the Gaslamp, but I think the food and ambience for Italian food downtown are bested by the restaurants in Little Italy.

Athens Market. Located next to Horton Plaza and the Federal Court building, this family-owned Greek restaurant ranks in the moderate to inexpensive class. Friendly waiters present classic Greek cuisine with a homemade flavor. The place is small, with a friendly bar, and patrons often share comments with each other on the food. For those who like Greek food and ambience, this is the spot to spend a relaxing and filling evening.

Little Italy

This section of the city can be reached from the convention center on foot for the more athletically inclined or using the San Diego Trolley and getting off at the Little Italy stop. It's hard to go wrong at practically any of the little trattorias along India Street. A particular favorite is Café Fantastica, which boasts marvelous homemade pasta dishes and an upbeat ambience. Service is good, there's a family-like atmosphere, and there's an emphasis on hearty southern Italian cooking. Nothing commercial or hokey here, just good food.

Hillcrest

Celadon. This Thai restaurant is located near UCSD Medical Center in Hillcrest, a popular restaurant and club district just a short cab ride from downtown. The restaurant's superbly prepared Thai cuisine make it a local favorite. Service can be spotty, but the food never is. Despite the crowds, the ambience is relaxed and quiet, and the young wait staff is usually helpful and accommodating. A stroll around Hillcrest afterward gives a good sense of the area.

Chinatown, Kearney Mesa

Chinatown in San Diego is in the district known as Kearney Mesa, about 20 minutes from downtown. Most of the restaurants are on a five-block stretch from Clairemont Mesa Drive south to Aero Drive. The specialty of San Diego seems to be Hong Kong–style Chinese seafood restaurants. The best of breed is a very modern place called China Max, which has a live seafood tank and serves some unusual Hong Kong variations of seafood not usually seen in other types of Chinese kitchens. Service is excellent and personal, and wait staff can often give excellent suggestions. Reservations are a must. Whole fish and crab dishes are superb.

Also in Chinatown are Emerald Seafood and Jasmine. They are larger and less personal, but they do a good job. Many other fine Asian restaurants are in this area, some quite inexpensive, and it's worth looking around. Be warned, however, that all of these restaurants are in strip malls, so if you're from New york or San Francisco, you may, at first, be horrified.

La Jolla

La Jolla is an upscale community about 12 miles north of downtown, yet is part of the City of San Diego. It can be reached by going west from the I-5 exit La Jolla Parkway. There are many restaurants worth a try, so I will mention those that are favorites.

Piatti, in La Jolla Shores, is two blocks from the ocean and tends to be the first place locals think of when they want to go out for a nice, relaxed meal. The food is northern Italian and meticulously prepared with the freshest ingredients. There is a lovely outdoor patio with heaters, and these are choice tables in nice weather. The interior is warm and cheery. There are often specials on the menu, including duck pasta, rabbit pasta, and liver, which are all worth trying. The wine list is small but well chosen, and there are decent bottles in the $20-$35 range.

Other worthy mentions include Sushi on the Rock, a very sleek, modern, and creative sushi venue that tends to draw a young, hip crowd; Spice and Rice, which serves excellent Thai cuisine; and Aqua, another Northern Italian venue that some prefer to Piatti. Gorgeous views, good service, and decent food can also be had at Top O' the Cove and Upstairs at George's.

Coronado

Coronado Island is home to the Naval Air Station, Coronado, and the famous Del Coronado Hotel, which is worth a tour. The hotel's Crown Room Restaurant has hosted movie stars and the Prince of Wales, but the food and service were probably better then.

A restaurant worthy of note is Peohe's. It is situated right on San Diego Bay, and in good weather one can request a table outside on the bay. The seafood here, in my opinion, is the best prepared in the county. The whole black bass in a Thai sauce is unforgettable. The restaurant serves prime rib and good steaks as well. ▪