From the stout and earnest to the young and whimsical, Chicago's dining
scene is as varied as its citizenry. It is impossible to do a proper appraisal
of Chicago restaurants in a few hundred words, so rather than wasting space
with undue introductions, like most Chicagoans I'll just jump right to the
meat of things.
Chicago has more to offer than the typical deep-dish pizza—hot
dog—Italian beef triumvirate that we're famous for, but one has to start
somewhere. Beyond being a heroic source of calories, deep-dish pizza is really
more of a rite of passage for the Chicago visitor. For authentic deep dish,
the local chains do not disappoint, Giordano's and Lou Malnati's being the
best of the bunch (multiple locations throughout the
city).FIG1
As far as hot dogs go, any self-respecting independent hot-dog stand will
do. Ask for the works, which usually consists of mustard, onions, neon green
relish, dill pickle, sport peppers, tomato, and celery salt. You can ask for
ketchup, but be prepared for ridicule that borders on hostility.
The best Italian beef in the city is, without a doubt, the discreetly named
Mr. Beef (at 666 North Orleans Street). Get extra napkins or wear a poncho as
this sandwich is not for the genteel among us.
Even though a hundred years have passed since Upton Sinclair wrote his
scathing critique of Chicago's slaughterhouses, The Jungle, the city
continues to have a strong, almost reverent relationship with beef in all of
its many incarnations. The steakhouses here are some of the best around. From
old standbys like Gene and Georgetti (500 North Franklin Street) and the
Chicago Chop House (60 West Ontario Street) to newer interpretations like
David Burke's Primehouse (616 North Rush Street) and the new Ajasteak (660
North State Street), steakhouses are as ubiquitous here as folksy small
talk.
Thanks to a recent article in Gourmet magazine, Chicago is
starting to be recognized as having some of the best regional Mexican cuisine
of any major city. Many of the best eateries are in Pilsen, a Hispanic
community that has become a bit of an artists' haven over the last several
years. Favorites here include Mundial Café (1640 West 18th Street) and
Carnitas Uruapan (1725 West 18th Street), where the namesake delicacy is
essentially the only thing on the menu (deservedly so) and ordered by the
pound. For sweets, head to Bombon Café (38 South Ashland Avenue) and
enjoy one of the best tres leches cakes around. For something closer to
downtown and just as extraordinary, try the Frontera Grill (449 North Clark
Street) and its up-market sister restaurant, Topolobampo, which shares the
same space. There, Chef Rick Bayless showcases the best and most complex
flavors that Mexico has to offer and does so with some of the freshest
ingredients from local
producers.FIG2FIG3
For all of the classic and authentic foods that Chicago does well, we've
got another trick up our sleeve. Chicago is considered the epicenter of
American molecular gastronomy. For those who are unfamiliar with the term,
imagine things like hot ice cream and edible menus and foods that undergo
phase changes as you eat them. The leader of the pack is Alinea (1723 North
Halstead Street), where food requires special instructions on how to be eaten
and whose chef, Grant Achatz, recently won the James Beard award for
outstanding chef. Others not to miss are Moto (945 West Fulton Market) and
Schwa (1466 North Ashland Avenue), which take themselves a little less
seriously than Alinea, but deliver an amazing experience nonetheless.
For those staying at the Palmer House Hilton and without the time to
venture outside of the Loop, there is a bounty of exceptional restaurants
nearby. For elevated pub food, head to The Gage (24 South Michigan Avenue),
which is conveniently located across the street from the Art Institute. Custom
House (500 South Dearborn Street), in the elegant Blake Hotel, specializes in
steak, but also does an amazing job highlighting the best ingredients of the
season. For innovative and well-executed tapas, check out Mercat a la Planxa
(638 South Michigan Avenue), Philadelphia chef Jose Garces' first foray into
the Chicago restaurant scene. Just next door to the Chicago Cadillac Palace
Theater and housed in the Hotel Allegro is the unassuming 312 Chicago (136
North La Salle Street), which serves mouth-watering Northern Italian fare.
I could go on and on. I could tell you, for example, that the best beef and
papaya salad can be found at the Vietnamese mecca Pho 777 (1065 West Argyle
Street). And that the best kabobs and mezze in the city are cranked out by the
tiny kitchen of Al-Khayameih (4738 North Kedzie Avenue). And that the most
inviting and intimate neighborhood restaurant is West Town Tavern (1329 West
Chicago Avenue). And that the cocktails at Nacional 27 (325 West Huron Street)
are as playful as they are strong. But the truth is, I don't think that I
could ever compose a list of Chicago restaurants that is complete. The thing
about this city is that as many restaurants as we have, and as much as we love
to eat, we're always hungry. ▪