Napa and Sonoma Valleys: More Than Vines and Wines

All right, yes—the sweeping valleys and gentle hillsides of Napa and Sonoma counties, an hour or so drive north of the Golden Gate Bridge, are covered by vineyards of hundreds of the world’s finest wineries. Even if wine is not on your menu, these areas offer a wide variety of sites and activities that deserve your attention.

Just over 140 years ago, Count Agston Haraszthy de Mokcsa, having returned from an extensive tour of the European wine country, was reported to say: “Of all the countries through which I have passed, not one possessed the same advantages that are to be found in California. California can produce as noble and generous a wine as any in Europe; more in quantity to the acre, and without repeated failures through frosts, summer rains, hailstorms, or other causes.”

That 1862 description of the Napa and Sonoma valleys would prove to be prophetic, indeed. Today Napa County, with around 290 active wineries, is the most densely concentrated wine-making region in the world. Sonoma County is not far behind, with nearly 200 wineries. Year after year, the vintages of these fields win awards as sales continue to soar.

However, wine is not the be-all and end-all of the Napa and Sonoma valleys. Boasting mineral-water soaks, mud baths, and massages, the region is home to several world-class spas and resorts. In addition, you can raft and kayak the Russian River, play endless rounds of golf and tennis, or walk, bike, or ride a train through the seemingly endless vineyards. You can even take in the vineyards from above, in a hot-air balloon.

Sonoma County’s Variety

Heading out of San Francisco on U.S. 101, you’ll cross the Golden Gate Bridge into Marin County. You’ll want to head east on State Highway 37, then north on State Highway 121, then bear left at Route 12 into the town of Sonoma at the southern end of the county.

Stretching from the rocky Pacific coast on the west to the peaks of the Mayacamas Mountains on the east, Sonoma County’s terrain is a study in diversity. Gently rolling hills, terraced vineyards, and flat fields of lavender and orange California poppies and bright yellow mustard give way to cool forests of ancient redwoods and the sparkling Russian River, its emerald green water flowing around rocky crags and through quiet canyons.

Sonoma County’s terrain and microclimates allow for a wide variety of outdoor recreation. For example, you can spend a day hiking the county from one end to the other. Many trails offer spectacular sights, among them are those in Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and Jack London State Park. A local favorite is the Pomo Canyon Trail, which runs from the Pomo Canyon Campground in Jenner to Shell Beach. An ancient trading route of the Pomo and Miwok tribes, the trail winds through redwood groves and offers exquisite views of the Pacific Ocean. A roundtrip hike takes about four hours.

You can also hug a great big, very old tree while you’re exploring Sonoma County. In the Armstrong Preserve are redwoods topping 300 feet tall, which are estimated to be more than 2,000 years old. During May the rhododendrons at Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve on the Sonoma County coast are in bloom. The park offers 317 acres of breathtaking pink blossoms.

Sonoma’s Vintages

If it’s wine you’re after, you’ll find not only plenty of the world’s finest vintages, but splendid cuisine to go along with them. The first vines from Europe were planted in Sonoma County in 1857. Today, some 55,000 acres of premium grapes flourish in the county—even more than in neighboring Napa County.

Sonoma County is home to many of the best-known California vintners, including Chateau St. Jean, Gallo, Kendall Jackson, Kenwood, Korbel Champagne, Matanzas Creek, and Silver Oak.

The county’s successful vintages owe their acclaim to the area’s diverse topography. The varying climates are perfect for different varietals. The Alexander Valley’s heat is ideal for Zinfandel vines, while the cooler, foggy Russian River Valley is just right for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.

Many wineries offer tours and free tastings in settings ranging from rustic vineyard barns to elaborate Italianate estates. Good information resources for Sonoma wine tours are the California Welcome Center and Sonoma County Wineries Association in Rohnert Park and the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau in Sonoma, which offer free information, maps, and guides.

Napa: America’s Wine Capital

If the Napa Valley is your preference, it is a bit farther from San Francisco—55 miles to the city of Napa—but the valley is more widely recognized as the capital of California Wine Country. Take U.S. 101 across the Golden Gate, heading north to Highway 37. Turn east on 37 to Vallejo, then north on Highway 29, which runs the length of Napa Valley.

Most of the wineries, hotels, shops, and restaurants are located on, or just off, Highway 29, the valley’s main north-south road.

Your first stop should be the Napa Valley Conference and Visitors Bureau in downtown Napa. The Bureau offers a $10 package that includes the official Napa Valley Guidebook; a slew of brochures, maps, and sample itineraries; and discount coupons for various activities including hot-air balloon rides. (Most of the same information is available on the bureau’s Web site for free—see Original article: box.)

Napa County’s sites are as varied as its neighbor to the west, Sonoma. The charming town of Calistoga is famous for its hot springs and mud baths, operated in the style of Old World spas. You can visit the Old Faithful Geyser, one of only three Old Faithfuls in the world (the Yellowstone site and one in Australia are the others). Then, walk through the fascinating nearby Petrified Forest, a unique collection of fossilized ancient redwoods. Lake Berryessa offers swimming, fishing, and camping.

The valley claims 37,000 acres of vineyards—fewer than Sonoma, but more geographically confined—making it the most densely planted wine region in the world. With nearly 300 wineries, you’ll need to plan your route of attack carefully!

A simple way to tour the valley is the Napa Valley Wine Train. Faithfully restored Pullman dining cars from 1917 will take you back into the era of elegant rail travel and distinguished service. You can enjoy champagne brunch, gourmet lunch, or a full-course dinner ($59.50 to $110) as you ride through the historic and scenic vineyards.

If you’d like to explore on your own, after you leave the Napa Valley Visitors Bureau, head out Redwood Road and enjoy a drive back in time to the Hess Collection. One of Napa’s most-visited wineries, it brings art and wine together like no other. In the late 1970s Swiss art collector Donald Hess transformed the original Christian Brothers 1903 property into a state-of-the-art winery and art gallery. Self-guided tours are free, and tastings are available for $3.

Other prime sites not to miss include the delightfully simple Stag’s Leap Wine Cellers, or its opposite, Domaine Chandon (of the French house of Moët et Chandon), which goes for elegance in its grounds and atmosphere.

Other famous labels in Napa Valley include Beaulieu Vineyards, Berringer, Charles Krug, Clos Du Val, the very high-end Opus One, Robert Mondavi, and Rutherford.

Planning Ahead

Whether it’s Sonoma or Napa, plenty of wineries are open to everyone, generally between 10 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Wineries that require reservations mostly do so because local laws limit the number of visitors at any given time, but a few limit guests to maintain a certain atmosphere.

In any case, although many will be happy to welcome you as you simply stop by, you may want to phone ahead if you have your heart set on visiting a winery that is among the more popular or requires reservations. ▪